Bangkok

Bangkok is a gorgeous, vibrant city, but I'm not in the mindset to appreciate it at the moment. To love Bangkok, you need to look past the heat, noise, disorder, sprawl and traffic -- and I'm not there. It makes me miss New York and other cities I've loved that are so exciting, yet more accessible and somehow lovable.

I arrived very, very late Sunday (or was it Monday? I think I lost a day) in Bangkok sans hotel reservation. (I know I COULD have made a reservation, but I like the thrill of hunting down a bed in the middle of the night, and not knowing if I'll find a place or not.) My guidebook told me that no reservations were necessary, that there is a block full of tourist hotels and restaurants and bars that runs all night long, Th Khao San. So I waited in the 90-degree heat for a taxi, and was delivered right there.

At first, Khao San Road reminded me of Bourbon Street in New Orleans -- not the part near Pat O'Brien's, but the opening off of Canal Street. The part completely devoid of charm. It was dirty, full of neon, loud music was coming from somewhere, and there were loud, drunk people everywhere. But there were a few hundred signs for hotels. After trying 6 places, I found a cheap room with a fan and bathroom down the hall, and crashed.

In daylight, Khao San Road seemed even worse. Every other shop was a crooked travel agency. The remaining shops sold cheap clothes or electronics equipment. Vendor stalls took up almost every inch of sidewalk space, and sold cheap-looking travel clothes and souvenirs. I couldn't get away fast enough.

Pictures from Bangkok

After a long, sweaty walk to the river, I pushed past a horde of junk sellers, taxi drivers and would-be tour guides to enter the Grand Palace. It was just gorgeous, like a fairy tale -- exquisite buildings, covered with intricate decorations in gold and precious materials. I sat under the Emerald Buddha and wished I knew a lot more about Buddhism. After a delicious snack of sliced melon, I toured Wat Pho, home of the ENORMOUS reclining Buddha. I took about 8 wrong river boats to try to get near Chinatown. However, I was more than happy to stay on the river -- it was the only place that was both quiet and cool.

I spent the afternoon wandering through different neighborhoods, then parked at an internet cafe to work on my note and decide where to go next. I finally settled on heading South, to the island of Ko Phi-Phi Don, a gorgeous island with limestone cliffs.

In the evening, I took a magical trip to Patpong, the famous (infamous) sex district. I think its golden age is long past. There were a few interesting-looking clubs with bikini-clad women dancing on stage, and WAY too many signs advertising guest house/massage parlor combos, but most people there were shopping at the market.

The next morning, I jumped out of bed at about 7:30, eager to walk around before the oppressive heat set in. I bought my bus ticket for the trip out tonight, visited another Wat, and randomly stumbled upon a Chabad House a block from my hotel. Odd, yet welcome.

And I'm spending the rest of the day finishing my journal note. But that's okay.